El Niño Swell, Somewhere in Baja
I had been watching the swell forecast for a couple weeks waiting for some solid El Niño storm swell and winds to cooperate in a certain spot down in Baja, and finally a promising window popped up on the Surfline forecast. So I packed up a week’s supply into my Nissan Xterra, Steve McQueen, and headed South. I met up with a few characters and had a few laughs around campfires when we weren’t surfing.
On this day, I only managed to get my longboard out in the lineup just once. It was big, and there was a river of current pushing off the rocks, and only the strongest paddlers made it out. I was happy with the two that I caught, and plenty happy to sit on the point and capture this wave of the day.