I’m writing this from the same exact camp spot I stayed at when I was 23 years old. Here are a few initial observations…
What’s changed?
- I didn’t have to sell my vehicle in a junk yard in San Ignacio because I failed to put oil in it.
- I have gray hair.
- 3 surfboards instead of one.
- I am decked out a laptop, an iPhone and 3 cameras (geez, could I get more pretentious???)There are WAY more people here. There were 10 guys and girls out at 2nd point vibing each other for 2 foot waves during tonight’s evening session.
- Fish tacos are fuckin expensive now! (Well, everything is.
What hasn’t changed?
- The waves that are breaking 5 feet out, and 20 feet down from my tent door still sounds like the most amazing sound in the entire universe. You know those questions that the guy on The Actor’s Studio asks? What sound do you love the most?… Well, I would totally answer that with “Waves peeling from 3rd point to 2nd point at Scorpion Bay”And I still can’t believe that I get to fall asleep tonight listening to that amazing sound.
- I can’t take a picture of it, but the bio-luminescence is showing up too. On the pitch black walk back from having my expensive fish tacos in town (see above), I came up with this amazing postualte that went something like ‘If life is energy, and energy can be expressed in wave form as well, then life inside of energy is the greatest life-form known to man.” Bio-luminescence is a form of plankton that glow when waves break. It’s actually a life form expressing itself in the presence of energy. That’s all it does! Well, that and probably get eaten by whales. But how cool is that????What this particular theorem provides to the scientific community, I don’t know. C’mon, I was on my 5th Tecate.
- The stars! Fucking Oh My Fucking God!!!! I can see the mother fucking Milky Way. And I get to sleep under it tonight!
I’ll post this tomorrow after a morning surf sesh.
It sounds amazing. Breathe in a nice deep breath for me and throw that energy (and a fish taco) my way.